Thursday, October 1, 2009

Bumped by the Government...




This week I was needed in Damascus for a short notice meeting with one of the government organisations. I got my visa in record time (and record expense) and set off for Syria. Unfortunately the booking at my usual hangout, the 5* Four Seasons, probably the best hotel i have stayed in, was ripped up as the Government requsitioned the rooms so I was moved down the street to the Dedeman, still a 5* but one of those with a little faded glory and 5* in an middle eastern "trying-very-hard-but-not-quite-getting-there" sort of way.



Not too worry, I was upgraded to the excutive floor "away from the poolside as the singer and Belly dancer will be performing till 3am". Now the transliteration of the arabic and western alphabets alway causes some lovely spelling issues. The photo advert for the said perfomance was for a rather trashy looking "Billy Dancer". Was that billy or should it be belly? I was intrigued. She was wearing what looked like some (rather loose!) demin dungarees. Perhaps this was the perfect match a fusion of the ancient art of Middle Eastern Belly Dancing and Hill-Billy Line Dancing? Perhaps Joumanah belly dances to Billy Ray Cyrus's Achey Breaky Heart?? Or perhaps it was just a typo. I'll never know as I was exhausted and so exited staged left to my executive room.


After the days work and meetings we went out into a part of the Souk I have not been before for a meal. I tried to remember the direction was I will take the family there when they join me in a visit. Right of the big mosque, down the spice souk, turn left through the gold souk, right again through the underwear and sock souk and left along the main road with the arches that leads to the antique souk and its off a side street - simples. Resturant was fanstastic, very much like all the other ones I have been to in Damascus, a beautiful old house, built around a courtyard with fountain. Food as always in Syria was great, simple lebanese style mezza, Tabouleh, Babbaganoush, Houmous, Shish Tawook etc, and loads of glorious fresh bread all washed down with fresh lemon uice with mint. As much as you can eat for about the equivalent of 10 us dollars (6 quid). Unfortunately I did not have the camera so have a photo from dragonameyer from tripadvisor where the resturant is rated very highly, and i have to agree..





We came back a different was through the souk. I'll have to remember this way to as we passed a shop that seemed to sell only stuffed Hyenas and wolverine-like things.....didn't think I would be able to get one on as hand luggage! You don't see that every day. We also passed the old railway station and had a quick look round, nice atmospheric building with beautiful wooden ticket booths and numerous pictures of the president staring down (The Syrians are keen on putting on photos of El Presidente, not so much the Egyptians as you only see a few of a rather young looking Mubarak, but no one beats the Libyans, with 1001 different, clearly photoshoped Gaddaffi, glorious poses staring proudly into the distance). The only thing missing with the station is the occurence of trains, apparently they no longer stop here - you have to get a bus to an out of town locations. The only train in site is an old loco from East Germany rusting slowly outside - those east germany really knew how to build'em.

Next time I bring the family, this really is an interesting place!






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